Choosing the right denim can be tricky business, especially when graduating into the world of premium (and pricey) denim.  Our best advice is to keep it simple.  One of the primary errors shoppers make when shopping for premium denim is to go overboard with embellishments, opting for a more ‘unique’ look to justify paying the increased cost.  Remember: ultra-distressed, bedazzled or otherwise adorned denim is not what you’re paying for, gentlemen.  The value is in the fit, quality and durability – and the likelihood that the style will remain classic and cool for many seasons to come.  Here are a few more pointers to guide you in the fitting room:

Raw denim is ultra stiff, and many shy away from this untreated jean in the stores because of this attribute.  Most denim is washed after the dyeing process to soften the jean; raw denim is unwashed and not artificially distressed, so it’s about as pure as you can get.  If you’re going to go raw, make sure the fit is skin tight….if you have to ask for assistance in getting the zipper up that’s a good start, as the denim will expand about an inch in the waist.  After 6 months of reckless wear and tear, these will be the most form-fitting, comfortable pair of jeans you own.

This spring, look for slim denim in a dark wash to pair with dressier items such as a tucked in dress shirt for casual but structured style.  Have a look inside the jean at the selvage edge (located on the outseam, this is the natural edge and typically found only on denim woven in continuous thread with old-style shuttle looms), as this is a good indicator of quality.

Our top brand choices for men’s denim this spring include APC, Acne, Earnest Sewn, Paper Denim & Cloth, PRPS [shown above], Habitual, Nudie, Kasil, 7 For All Mankind, and the perpetually classic Levi’s.

For The Men’s Book, published in Manchester UK by Ampers& Media Group.