Credits to Toyo Tsuchiya for styling and Brenndan Laird for photography.
Michael Mann is making fun of me for having a crush on a vampire. My teenage buddy may have been a dork, but vampires are so hot right now.
sookiesookie.
Choosing the right denim can be tricky business, especially when graduating into the world of premium (and pricey) denim. Our best advice is to keep it simple. One of the primary errors shoppers make when shopping for premium denim is to go overboard with embellishments, opting for a more ‘unique’ look to justify paying the increased cost. Remember: ultra-distressed, bedazzled or otherwise adorned denim is not what you’re paying for, gentlemen. The value is in the fit, quality and durability – and the likelihood that the style will remain classic and cool for many seasons to come. Here are a few more pointers to guide you in the fitting room:
Raw denim is ultra stiff, and many shy away from this untreated jean in the stores because of this attribute. Most denim is washed after the dyeing process to soften the jean; raw denim is unwashed and not artificially distressed, so it’s about as pure as you can get. If you’re going to go raw, make sure the fit is skin tight….if you have to ask for assistance in getting the zipper up that’s a good start, as the denim will expand about an inch in the waist. After 6 months of reckless wear and tear, these will be the most form-fitting, comfortable pair of jeans you own.
This spring, look for slim denim in a dark wash to pair with dressier items such as a tucked in dress shirt for casual but structured style. Have a look inside the jean at the selvage edge (located on the outseam, this is the natural edge and typically found only on denim woven in continuous thread with old-style shuttle looms), as this is a good indicator of quality.
Our top brand choices for men’s denim this spring include APC, Acne, Earnest Sewn, Paper Denim & Cloth, PRPS [shown above], Habitual, Nudie, Kasil, 7 For All Mankind, and the perpetually classic Levi’s.
For The Men’s Book, published in Manchester UK by Ampers& Media Group.
There’s a spring trend on the horizon that is taking a little while to catch on, and we surmise the reason might be the horrendous moniker it’s been given: the manpri. We simply like to call these badboys “long shorts” or “cropped pants,” but whatever name you call it this is a style worth trying out.
Manpri’s have garnered the ire of bloggers, fashion critics, and awe-stricken passerby in past years, but we still insist there are occasions when it works. Our guinea pigs scoffed when we shoved them into a fitting room with armloads of these odd looking shorts to model, but they all emerged as converted fans. Sitting halfway between the knee and the ankle, these pseudo-pants work best with a simple tee or short sleeved button-up dress shirt – but do not attempt tucking in with this look. To pull off this style and avoid crass public humiliation, stay away from khaki, camo, cargo, and anything that unzips into 3 different sizes. Instead choose cotton twill with belt loops and a wider leg in black, grey or dark brown. And do the world a favour by canning the term “manpri” and “spants” (short pants) – along with the baneful “murse.”
For The Men’s Book, published in Manchester UK by Ampers& Media Group
Above: Lucas wearing Obakki.
Spring is the season of growth and new beginnings, and in celebration of winter’s retreat you should consider injecting a bit of colour into your wardrobe. Keep your blacks, greys and browns as your ultimate basic building blocks, but this spring incorporate punches of powerful color such as orange, crimson or pink in subtle ways to break up the drab and depressed darks of your winter palette.
Beneath a cardigan opt for a slightly loose fitting yellow ochre or salmon pink tee; pair a vibrant orange plaid scarf with a casual charcoal suit; or don burnt crimson loafers with your favourite denim. The intensity of the hue is entirely up to you. If you’re put off by this whole notion of color in your otherwise black wardrobe, try throwing some browned down hues that are dark and earthy as a start – we call this the path of least resistance, as these shady colors will calmly dissolve among your blacks. Pastel colors or sheer fabrics are likewise easy interlopers across a landscape of white and beige garments, for their similar lack of contrast. But it certainly takes a confident (read: sexy) man to go all the way with that hint of color by choosing the most vibrant and energetic colors available. Just remember that when you take colour to these extremes, repeat the “less is more” mantra to avoid looking too flamboyant – unless, of course, that’s exactly what you’re after.
For The Men’s Book, published in Manchester UK by Ampers& Media Group
Pictured: Dsquared Spring 2008, images courtesy of men.style.com
Sorry fellas, but skinnier ties and shrinking lapels just aren’t going to cut it if you want to play the sustainable fashion game. It’s a bit like riding a bike to work just one day a week…you’re headed in the right direction, but that inch of saved fabric isn’t getting you nearly as far as the bicycle is. While menswear is often behind when it comes to new trends and developments – such as the availability of organic and ethical fabrics and materials – there are a few companies we’ve had our eye on that aren’t sacrificing style for sustainability.
Denim is the easiest place to start greening your wardrobe; even some of the biggest denim producers are incorporating organic cotton within major styles, such as Levi’s Eco. Check out Sling & Stones [above] and Finn Creations for purely organic, fairly traded denim in a variety of styles for men. Babygod creates ethical menswear, Loomstate offers casual organic for men and women, Splendid Always serves up pesticide-free cotton tees, while Earnest Sewn & Repetto teamed up to create Greencaste eco-friendly shoes.
If you still can’t find organic or fairly traded materials transformed into a style that suits your taste, at least the option to eliminate synthetics from your wardrobe is a fair beginning. Men’s fashion will catch up to the green movement that is well underway in womenswear eventually. Until then, we guess you can keep the skinny tie.
For The Men’s Book, published in Manchester UK by Ampers& Media Group
OK guys, we all know how the ladies love to pilfer through our wares and rock “the boyfriend” jeans and tees, but when you’re low on clean laundry or looking to put a little extra sass in your frass there are a few items you can pillage from the female wardrobe. But rest easy – you will likely recognize a few of the garments in your girlfriend’s closet, as so many current ladies’ fashions are directly inspired by menswear.
Scarves, the noose of the fashion industry – and just as difficult writhe free of. Lightweight and patterned is best for spring, paired with a simple tee, skinny jeans and a sharp blazer or vest.
A ladies’ oversized cardigan could be the perfect fit on you, worn unbuttoned with a graphic tee. Double-check the “oversized” bit, because if you stretch out her sweater with those ripped biceps of yours she’ll fit the punishment with the crime and lay you out hard.
Tailored vests are a persistent wardrobe staple this spring, so look for one with little emphasis on the bust darts (unless you want to accentuate your man-boobs) and styles borrowed from the classic men’s tailored vest – watch and kerchief pockets, for example.
Hats are easy… if the shoe fits, wear it! Generally male heads are bigger than females – we blame that thick skull – but if you luck out with a large brained lady, hats are a great accessory to swap.
And finally, if you’re really feeling adventurous there’s no shame in trying out those frilly skivvies you’ve so frequently adored on her bottom. Bonus points if you go string.
For The Men’s Book, published in Manchester UK by Ampers& Media Group
