Choosing the right denim can be tricky business, especially when graduating into the world of premium (and pricey) denim. Our best advice is to keep it simple. One of the primary errors shoppers make when shopping for premium denim is to go overboard with embellishments, opting for a more ‘unique’ look to justify paying the increased cost. Remember: ultra-distressed, bedazzled or otherwise adorned denim is not what you’re paying for, gentlemen. The value is in the fit, quality and durability - and the likelihood that the style will remain classic and cool for many seasons to come. Here are a few more pointers to guide you in the fitting room:
Raw denim is ultra stiff, and many shy away from this untreated jean in the stores because of this attribute. Most denim is washed after the dyeing process to soften the jean; raw denim is unwashed and not artificially distressed, so it’s about as pure as you can get. If you’re going to go raw, make sure the fit is skin tight….if you have to ask for assistance in getting the zipper up that’s a good start, as the denim will expand about an inch in the waist. After 6 months of reckless wear and tear, these will be the most form-fitting, comfortable pair of jeans you own.
This spring, look for slim denim in a dark wash to pair with dressier items such as a tucked in dress shirt for casual but structured style. Have a look inside the jean at the selvage edge (located on the outseam, this is the natural edge and typically found only on denim woven in continuous thread with old-style shuttle looms), as this is a good indicator of quality.
Our top brand choices for men’s denim this spring include APC, Acne, Earnest Sewn, Paper Denim & Cloth, PRPS [shown above], Habitual, Nudie, Kasil, 7 For All Mankind, and the perpetually classic Levi’s.
For The Men’s Book, published in Manchester UK by Ampers& Media Group.
There’s a spring trend on the horizon that is taking a little while to catch on, and we surmise the reason might be the horrendous moniker it’s been given: the manpri. We simply like to call these badboys “long shorts” or “cropped pants,” but whatever name you call it this is a style worth trying out.
Manpri’s have garnered the ire of bloggers, fashion critics, and awe-stricken passerby in past years, but we still insist there are occasions when it works. Our guinea pigs scoffed when we shoved them into a fitting room with armloads of these odd looking shorts to model, but they all emerged as converted fans. Sitting halfway between the knee and the ankle, these pseudo-pants work best with a simple tee or short sleeved button-up dress shirt – but do not attempt tucking in with this look. To pull off this style and avoid crass public humiliation, stay away from khaki, camo, cargo, and anything that unzips into 3 different sizes. Instead choose cotton twill with belt loops and a wider leg in black, grey or dark brown. And do the world a favour by canning the term “manpri” and “spants” (short pants) - along with the baneful “murse.”
For The Men’s Book, published in Manchester UK by Ampers& Media Group
Above: Lucas wearing Obakki.
Spring is the season of growth and new beginnings, and in celebration of winter’s retreat you should consider injecting a bit of colour into your wardrobe. Keep your blacks, greys and browns as your ultimate basic building blocks, but this spring incorporate punches of powerful color such as orange, crimson or pink in subtle ways to break up the drab and depressed darks of your winter palette.
Beneath a cardigan opt for a slightly loose fitting yellow ochre or salmon pink tee; pair a vibrant orange plaid scarf with a casual charcoal suit; or don burnt crimson loafers with your favourite denim. The intensity of the hue is entirely up to you. If you’re put off by this whole notion of color in your otherwise black wardrobe, try throwing some browned down hues that are dark and earthy as a start – we call this the path of least resistance, as these shady colors will calmly dissolve among your blacks. Pastel colors or sheer fabrics are likewise easy interlopers across a landscape of white and beige garments, for their similar lack of contrast. But it certainly takes a confident (read: sexy) man to go all the way with that hint of color by choosing the most vibrant and energetic colors available. Just remember that when you take colour to these extremes, repeat the “less is more” mantra to avoid looking too flamboyant – unless, of course, that’s exactly what you’re after.
For The Men’s Book, published in Manchester UK by Ampers& Media Group
Pictured: Dsquared Spring 2008, images courtesy of men.style.com
Sorry fellas, but skinnier ties and shrinking lapels just aren’t going to cut it if you want to play the sustainable fashion game. It’s a bit like riding a bike to work just one day a week…you’re headed in the right direction, but that inch of saved fabric isn’t getting you nearly as far as the bicycle is. While menswear is often behind when it comes to new trends and developments - such as the availability of organic and ethical fabrics and materials - there are a few companies we’ve had our eye on that aren’t sacrificing style for sustainability.
Denim is the easiest place to start greening your wardrobe; even some of the biggest denim producers are incorporating organic cotton within major styles, such as Levi’s Eco. Check out Sling & Stones [above] and Finn Creations for purely organic, fairly traded denim in a variety of styles for men. Babygod creates ethical menswear, Loomstate offers casual organic for men and women, Splendid Always serves up pesticide-free cotton tees, while Earnest Sewn & Repetto teamed up to create Greencaste eco-friendly shoes.
If you still can’t find organic or fairly traded materials transformed into a style that suits your taste, at least the option to eliminate synthetics from your wardrobe is a fair beginning. Men’s fashion will catch up to the green movement that is well underway in womenswear eventually. Until then, we guess you can keep the skinny tie.
For The Men’s Book, published in Manchester UK by Ampers& Media Group
OK guys, we all know how the ladies love to pilfer through our wares and rock “the boyfriend” jeans and tees, but when you’re low on clean laundry or looking to put a little extra sass in your frass there are a few items you can pillage from the female wardrobe. But rest easy – you will likely recognize a few of the garments in your girlfriend’s closet, as so many current ladies’ fashions are directly inspired by menswear.
Scarves, the noose of the fashion industry - and just as difficult writhe free of. Lightweight and patterned is best for spring, paired with a simple tee, skinny jeans and a sharp blazer or vest.
A ladies’ oversized cardigan could be the perfect fit on you, worn unbuttoned with a graphic tee. Double-check the “oversized” bit, because if you stretch out her sweater with those ripped biceps of yours she’ll fit the punishment with the crime and lay you out hard.
Tailored vests are a persistent wardrobe staple this spring, so look for one with little emphasis on the bust darts (unless you want to accentuate your man-boobs) and styles borrowed from the classic men’s tailored vest – watch and kerchief pockets, for example.
Hats are easy… if the shoe fits, wear it! Generally male heads are bigger than females – we blame that thick skull – but if you luck out with a large brained lady, hats are a great accessory to swap.
And finally, if you’re really feeling adventurous there’s no shame in trying out those frilly skivvies you’ve so frequently adored on her bottom. Bonus points if you go string.
For The Men’s Book, published in Manchester UK by Ampers& Media Group
Here’s an antiquated fashion statement we’re ready to re-adopt and recycle: handmade footwear. Traditional cordwainers have largely been replaced by industrial manufacturers, but hand crafted shoes and boots are making a sure comeback and the results are fit for royalty.
Not only does the commission of a hand-crafted custom shoe allow you the freedom of input towards design and style, but the results are delicately tailored to your specific foot size to ensure a perfect fit.
Given the shifting cultural and political landscape towards ethical products and practices, opting for handmade footwear is a positive step towards achieving sustainability. Choosing a pair of handmade leather shoes allows the buyer knowledge of that product history – you could probably even find out what farm the leather originates from if you asked! Pounded and pressed leather soles eliminate the need for so much plastic (save for the heel, which can be replaced as you wear it down) and a well-made leather shoe should endure for decades. If leather isn’t your bag, many shoemakers can construct “vegan” footwear out of eco-friendly fabrics or other non-animal derived materials.
There’s nothing classier than personal tailoring from head to toe. Start from the bottom up and check out www.shoemakers.org.uk for a list of independent shoemakers, cordwainers and cobblers in the UK.
For The Men’s Book, published in Manchester UK by Ampers& Media Group
Rarely does one pass another on the street and, intrigued by a unique scent wafting through the city air, remark affectionately on the familiar fragrance of burnt rubber or cellulose. But quirky odours are key to the success of Comme des Garçons Parfums, and in many ways result in a more honest aromatic signature. Instead of conjuring up an arbitrary fragrance to represent certain intangibles like “love” or “passion,” CdG strives to duplicate the scents and emotions affiliated with concrete reference points, such as the Red series which captured the lifeblood of “carnation,” “rose,” and “saffron.” Comme des Garçons Parfums are anything but ordinary, straying far from notes bearing any similarity to common popular fragrances, an anti-establishment tendency that remains firmly in sync with their reputation in the fashion industry for avant-garde designs.
1994 saw the release of their first self-titled unisex fragrance, and in 1998 “Odeur 53″ tickled nostrils with 53 anti-perfume notes such as flaming rock, flash of metal, oxygen, washing drying in the wind, and sand dunes. The line has grown significantly since; the numbered fragrances consist of more masculine features such as dust on hot light bulb, ink, mahogany and leather, while the more unisex “Series” huddle beneath thematic umbrellas such as Incense, Synthetics, Leaves, and Sherbet. The newest addition to the CdG perfume house is “888,” which reflects the essence of gold with pepperwood, coriander, amber and geranium notes. Perfumer Antoine Lie of Givaudan fragrance producers worked with CdG perfume creative director Christian Astuguevieille to isolate a molecule of saffron called Safraline, a predominant component within this highly anticipated Spring 2008 fragrance. “888″ is as winsome as the element upon which it was inspired - pure gold, and yet another example of how Comme des Garçons doesn’t just push the envelope, they redefine the envelope and then question whether we even needed the damn thing to begin with.
For The Men’s Book, published in Manchester UK by Ampers& Media Group
Alas, my chapter for the Province Serial Thriller wasn’t selected for print…but it was fun to write nonetheless. I think more talk than action + possible police corruption = a flunk. I have to say I’m a little disappointed that all of the winners so far are older, white men - but that’s the thriller genre, I suppose. Hopefully some younger (and female) writers get their break before the competition is over!
If you’re interested in reading the series so far, go here. If you want to read the chapter I wrote, read on!
Continue reading ‘My Chapter 6′
One of my university papers, published in UVic’s Rabbit Review of Contemporary Cinema in April 2005. This was submitted for a writing class on the Dogme 95 Film movement.
Read here.
